If you love to travel and are ready for a new adventure, consider Montenegro. This little country has been on Roger’s bucket list for a while and this summer we had a chance to spend six days there exploring and soaking in an entirely new culture. It’s like this… get to Athens or Rome or even Croatia and take a short regional flight to Montenegro. This jewel about the size of Connecticut is hidden between Albania and Croatia, north of Greece and East of Italy. It was formerly Yugoslavia.

Normally, we approach a country from a historical perspective, but we had no idea what to expect this time, so we were wide-eyed and open for anything. Typically, we have researched a country for several months to gather all the important information concerning highlights and attractions, what to see, what to do and where to go. This was a more spontaneous adventure for us. We found out Montenegro has one major city, mountains and a shoreline. It was quickly decided to spend two days in the city, two days in the country and two days at the beach. Ahh… perfect!

After flying over beautiful mountain ranges from Athens, we finally landed in the capital city of Podgorica. We had arranged a rental car and as we were setting things up, the clerk mentioned that the car we were renting was brand new, would we like to pay for more insurance. Naw, we never do that. But as we got closer to the city from the airport, we started to see what the clerk was trying to tell us. The rules of driving appear to be mere suggestions. Later we chuckled about the fact that the clerk was really looking out for us.

Tip: Before planning too much of your road trip in Montenegro, something you should know. E’s are the best roads, M’s are second and P’s are ok. Anything in white is usable, but one lane and very slow. Plan lots of time for P’s and white roads.

City – Podgorica

Podgorica is a modern city, the capital of Montenegro and a great base to rest up from your long trip from the US. Day trips to the surrounding area are within a short distance.

3 Places to Visit

Lake Skatar

Lake Skatar is a large picturesque lake that offers great views and boat rides. Stop off at the small town of Skatar and enjoy a short cruise or boat tour. This is a relaxing afternoon. There are several cafes and even a small grocery store if you get hungry.

Tip: On the way to Lake Skatar, take in a beautiful view of a horseshoe look at the river of leading into the tiny town of Rijeka. The view is worth the side trip and narrow road off the M2.3.

Cetinje

Later visit the old capital of the nation of Montenegro prior to WWI, Cetinje. After WWI, Montenegro became a state within the nation of Yugoslavia. The old downtown offers a row of large historical buildings that were former embassies, now mostly government offices. Stroll down the wide streets of shops into the town square with cafes, churches, a monastery, museum and benches perfect for people watching and a short rest.

Tip: Ice cream along the street was only 40 cents a scoop.

3 Places to Eat

Cafe Bonella

We stayed in the area of Podgorica such a short time that we will offer 1 place to eat. Cafe Bonella is a coffee/dessert/food shop in the bottom level of the Centreville Hotel next to several office buildings. The food is delicious, plentiful and super inexpensive. The steak, chicken, turkey dishes are yummy and filling. Coffee drinks are interesting and unusual, but the best is all the gorgeous desserts. Many locals seem to use it as a coffee and dessert bar. Cafe Bonella is attached to a market that features organic foods. We found many interesting teas and local candies that made perfect gifts for the family.

1 Place to Stay

Centreville Hotel

Centreville Hotel is in the heart of the Podgorica shopping district, close to many upscale stores and about a mile or so from a mall where stores are mostly unknown to Americans, definitely worth a peak. The hotel staff is wonderfully helpful about directions and suggestions for places to visit in Montenegro. The rooms are very quiet and comfortable, perfect to sleep off that pesky jet lag.

Mountains – Kolasin

Next we headed off toward the mountains. The high country is full of scenic drives with views all around, lakes, mountains and streams. Compared to US parks, the mountains are virtually untouched. There are small towns and villages, but this area does not feel commercial or too upscale. There are many trails and parks with open green areas near streams. There are walking paths in the parks.

Tip: The Ostrog Monastery is approximately 22 miles from Podgorica snuggled up in the side of a sheer mountain overlooking the valley. The monastery is a short walk uphill, but well worth it. Named after St. Basil, the present day monastery was built in the 1920’s. It originally was built in caves in the late 1600’s. There are stories of many miracles here making it a destination for many religious groups and tourists. The views are amazing from this spot.

3 Places to Visit

Dumitor National Park

Dumitor National Park came highly recommended and did not disappoint. Even with its many visitors, there are quiet walks and streams and one of the most beautiful lakes ever.

Black Lake

The Black Lake is the star of the park. Mountains are the backdrop, a forest is the foreground with two adjoining emerald green blue lakes to highlight the scene, Big Lake and Little Lake. The water is peaceful and clear. The beauty around the lakes takes your breath away. There is a 3.5 km trail surrounding the lake area. Open hours depend on the time of year. It costs 3 EURO per person to get in and 2 EURO to park your car. The two lakes together self-level. The temperature of the water is only 4 deg celcius less than the air temperature making it perfect for swimming during the warm months.

Tip: Driving from Dumitor National Park to Kolasin, plan to stop at the Tara River Canyon zip line at the junction of P4 and P5. It costs 10 EURO and goes across a deep canyon.

Biogradska National Park

Near Kolasin is an untouched or virgin forest, Biogradska. Hikers and naturalists go there to study the 220 plant species in 26 different habitats and over 150 kinds of birds. There is a small lake where you can rent an old fashioned rowboat. Roger rowed me around while I relaxed in the peacefulness of the water. Afterwards we took the path around the lake. Its around a 3 kilometer walk, just perfect. There are rental cabins there if you like ruffing it. Its a great way to spend a day with nature. Many of the trees are believed to be over 500 years old. Roots cover the trails in many places. Wear sneakers or hiking boots and a hat.

3 Places to Eat

Picnic

Picnic – For all the driving and wandering around the high country, we suggest stopping at one of the mom and pop grocery stores or a grocery chain called Idea Grocers for snacks and lunch fixins. Many have homemade pastries and rolls. Grab some meat and cheese from the deli, some veggies and fruit and don’t forget the water. Having a picnic lunch not only takes the pressure off of finding some kind of restaurant in the parks, it allows for flexibility in your travels and its a treat eating in such gorgeous natural surroundings.

Restoran Konoba Kolasin

 
Kolasin was our home base so we ate many of our meals there. We suggest eating on the main square. The Restoran Konoba Kolasin we found had been there for decades. We had roast pork, potatoes and veggies and a glass of wine all for under 10 EURO. Sitting out on the square, we watched families taking an evening stroll, kids crashing around on their bikes and couples hanging out in outdoor cafes. Ice cream can be found just off the square and hits the spot after a long day of driving and hiking through the mountains.

Sheraton Four Points Breakfast Buffet

The Sheraton Four Points had a filling breakfast buffet. Protein and regional delights made this breakfast buffet fun and interesting. We decided to eat up as we would have a long drive down to the coast.

1 Place to Stay – Sheraton Four Points in Kolasin

Sheraton Four Points

The Sheraton Four Points in the ski town of Kolasin offered a cozy 2 room suite with a couch and TV in the front room and a large warm bed in the back. This hotel has great showers, a sauna and pool. The best thing is the location, just 2 blocks off the main square, across the street from a medium-sized Idea grocery store and only 2 miles from the highway. Perfect!

The Coast – Kotor

The last part of our trip was the coastline of Kotor. Kotor is the main beach city where the ocean comes into a inlet. Kotor Bay is a destination of many cruise ships and yachts. Close to the water lies the medieval section of a town that has been turned into shops and restaurants. It is interesting, but with a lot to see and a short time to see it, we decided to spend most our time on or near the water.

Tip: There are other coastline places worth the visit. The Budva Riviera including Sveti Stefan Island and Herceg Novi, close to Croatia.

3 Things to Do

Kotor Boat Tours

The shoreline goes on for miles so we decided to take a boat tour. We found that the cost depends largely on the number of people going on the tour. One other family needed to go the same time that worked best for us so the cost ended up being 30 Euro each. We left our cars and the boat, speedboat that is, took us each back to our hotels for a quick change of clothes, water and our cameras. Our guide had been taking tourists around the area for eight summers so we knew we would get to see the works. We took a three hour tour which was about perfect for us.

Highlights included a ride through submarine tunnels used to hide submarines in WWII. Barriers of metal with foliage over the top would hide the subs from the enemy. There was a fort on each side of the mouth of the inlet that were once prisons, one for men, one for women. We hoped to swim in the Blue Cave, but the waters were rough out close to the Adriatic Sea so we turned around. A beautiful church stood out on a small island in the middle of the inlet, Our Lady of the Rock. We stopped for peek. It turns out many couples get married there. The tiny island was created in 1630 and is the protector of fishermen and seamen. The Kotor Boat Tour guys with the speedboats give a great tour and the views from the boat lets you see Croatia, Herceg Novi, the largest city in Montenegro and Tivat, the place where people park their yachts.

Tivat

Driving to Tivat is an around the shoreline in and out slow drive. But you are on vacation, no worries. Park down by the yachts and expensive shops near Porto Montenegro. Careful where you park, parking tickets in Tivat are plentiful and difficult to pay. Tivat is a town with many stores and restaurants, but walking out to watch the beautiful yachts and water was our choice as the views were gorgeous. There are a few restaurants right on the water where can watch the people and all the harbor activity. We chose Bevanda Restorante Pizzeria, known for its brick oven baked pizza. You could watch the chef and the water. Walking the harbor area is worth the visit.

Historic Old Town

Near the cruise ships, in Kotor is the Historic Old Town of Kotor. It is possible to take a tour, but we chose walking down the narrow streets and discovering something different around every corner. It is enjoyable to poke around and take lots of photos, but be aware, most of the town is now tourist shops and restaurants. Montenegro is not expensive, but the Old Town  area is designed for you to spend. Yes, I bought something there…a Russian hand-painted Santa. I’m a sucker for those.

Honorable Mention: There is Kotor Fortress you can climb to near up from the Old Town. Those of you in great shape should go for it. The views of the entire bay are worth it.

3 Places to Eat

Bevanda Ristorante Pizzeria

 
Bevanda Ristorante Pizzeria is an on the water cafe for wood oven pizza. Yummy and great people and boat watching.

Konoba Portun Restaurant

Konoba Portun Restaurant is on the water close to Belle di Mare. Eat out next to the water and watch the amazing sunset. Fish here is wonderful.

Farmer’s Market

There is a farmer’s market outside the walls, close to the Old Town. Check out the fresh produce for a healthy quick lunch.

1 Place to Stay

Belle di Mare

We chose to stay at Belle di Mare, on the water with its own dock and restaurant. The rooms have a balcony and look outonto Kotor Bay. Its not a fancy place, but adequate and very clean. There is always a tug to stay in a upscale place, but this time an 80 EURO per night spot on the water proved to be a great decision.

 
As you travel more and more, you may find yourself wanting an off the beaten path getaway. Montenegro is a wonderful choice. In combination with a trip to Croatia, Greece or Italy, this little country will prove to be a delight. Your money will stretch a long way and your experiences will be unique and leave you wanting more. Happy travels!