Roger and I were traveling to Greece for the first time for a business trip and ended up with six extra days to soak in as much of Greece as possible. It was a tough call, but we decided to stay on the mainland and not venture out to the Greek Islands this time. Sometimes you have to consider how much time is feasible for the trip and how much time you’ll end up traveling from place to place. With only six days, we decided to spend three in Athens and three in the Peloponnese area south of Athens. We’ll check out those famously gorgeous islands next time.
Get in the car and drive… Peloponnese first. We decided to save Athens for when we’d recovered from jet lag and understood more about the Greek culture. First things first, pick a base. We took a hard look at a map of Greece and picked a resort town on the water, Nafplio. Having that home base to go back to at the end of the day is very important! You venture out on multiple day trips, but always come back to the same hotel. Your bags are unpacked, restaurants are handy and familiar, and in this case, the water’s edge is calm and inviting.
Peloponnese
3 Places to Go
We often pick our places to go based on the history of the country. Greece was the beginning of civilized life and its history is beyond compare. Whether you want to learn more about the Greeks, Romans, Mythology or Christianity, Greece is the place.
Tip: Once you narrow it down to the things you are most interested in, it focuses you and your trip will seem more doable.
Epidavros
This is the site of an ancient Roman theater and small museum. Surrounding the theater are a smattering of ruins and archaeological sites. The ancient theater, built over 2,000 years ago for 15,000 people, is still used for concerts and performances today. Walk up the steps to the top and you can clearly hear a person speaking in a normal voice in the center of the stage. Your imagination can take you back to what it must of been like to see plays and concerts during ancient times. Epidavros is a tourist destination so there are small eateries and outdoor stands with lemonade and ice cream along the path. Getting used to the heat in the Grecian summer is nigh to impossible. You will be glad for the refreshment. Open 8:00-8:00 daily during summer. Cost: 12 euro, www.culture.gr
Mycenae
The ancient town of Mycenae (1600-1200B.C.) was the capital of the Mycenaeans, heroes of the Trojan War and 1000 years before the Acropolis. The entrance is called Lions Gate, where two lions point the way to the village where you can make out the different foundations for homes, animal pens and the various chambers of the governor’s palace. Beyond, you can visit the ancient cities’ cistern and a tomb built in the 15th century B.C.. There is a small museum with pottery, jewelry and weapons. From there, you can look out over the valley. Across the road is an interesting cone-shaped structure called the Tomb of Artemus, 47′ wide and 42′ high with 33 rings of corbelled stones weighing about 5 tons each. It is said to be over 3,000 years old. We found it much cooler inside the structure. Open 8:00-8:00 in summer. Closed Sunday. Cost: 12 Euro. Check www.culture.gr before your visit.
Olympia
Going to Olympia was a drive for sure, but well worth it. It was the home of the first Olympics and many more, for over 1,000 years, 776 B.C.- A.D. 393. People didn’t live here, but journeyed here for the games every four years. Any free-born male citizen could participate, but men and boys participated separately. There are ruins and structures over several acres of land. You can see where temples stood, including the Temple of Zeus, the gymnasium and other training facilities of the Greeks, the wrestling school, statues, and ruins. After strolling through the treed area, you can walk through the arches just like the first Olympians. Many tourists line up for a race in the arena while others sit upon the grassy hillside rooting on their champion. There is a good-sized museum back at the entrance that tells more about Olympia. The beautiful statues, facades and pediments from the Greek temples and many Olympic artifacts are memorable. There are two more museums within the site, the Museum of the History of Excavations (2 euro) and the Archimedes Museum (free). Open April-Aug 8:00-8:00, Sept 8:00-7:00, Nov-March 8:30-3:00. Cost: 12 euro for both the site and the museum.
Tip: Consider visiting the outdoor museum in the morning or evening and the indoor museum in the heat of the day. Take water, it can get very hot in the summer.
3 Places to Eat
Olympia
After walking all over Olympia, go into the town and discover a great Greek restaurant, The Aegean on Georgiou Douma street. It has been in the family for generations. The authentic Greek recipes melt in your mouth. Try the lemon chicken that has been marinating for hours and a delicious Caprese salad. All the food is fresh from local produce. Sit outside under the fans and relax.
Nafplio
For great souvlaki, try the Greek restaurant Gyrokomeio (Gyro Grill) on the corner across from the park. The food is tasty and plentiful. Two meals + appetizer easily feeds three hungry travelers. 11 Sidiras Merarchias Street
Nafplio
Liatero, This restaurant has wonderful fresh fish and a relaxing outdoor patio perfect for a quiet dinner after a long day of sightseeing. Eth. Antistasis 5.
Honorable Mention: Antica Gelateria di Roma for ice cream or sorbet. You’ll stand in line, but boy is it worth it! The summer beach town is slightly cooler and the ice cream is heavenly. Try a new flavor, sit outside and enjoy. Open 9:00-12:00am, Farmakopoulou 3.
1 Place to Stay
Nafplio
The Acronafplia Pension B&D on 6 Agiou Spyridon Street is a fun place to stay. Walk up the stairs and down the hall to spacious rooms above the street. The AC is fabulous! Put your feet up before dinner, listen to the sounds of music and laughter below from the outdoor restaurants. It can be a little noisy, but you are experiencing the Greek beach side culture. From your hotel, you can walk all over town to the beach and all the shops and restaurants. We loved it!
on the road to Athens… Corinth!
Corinth
A wonderful stop just outside of Athens is the ancient Biblical town of Corinth. It is still an archaeological dig. Every summer students from American University come to work and intern on this dig. The ruins are amazing! You can imagine the Apostle Paul preaching in Corinth and appealing to the people. It is easy to make out the temple, the shopping stalls where Paul would have sold his tents, the foundations of homes and buildings. The Bemus, where the Apostle Paul exclaimed, “I appeal to Caesar,” sending him to be eventually tried in Rome. The museum next to the ruins contains many ancient statues, decor and pottery. On the other side of the street is an amphitheater. This stop will make your day, don’t miss it!
On the road along side the ruins are several cafes and gift shops. The food at Tavernaki Tou Gamprou is perfect. Try the Moussaka. Yum! If you don’t have a have for protection from the sun at this point, stop at the shop next door and get a hat! The artisan there has some unique hand painted vases that make for perfect souvenirs.
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Athens
Now we were ready for Athens! We turned in our rental car, found our hotel and whew, after a little rest in AC took off walking toward the center of Athens. Walking around cities we get a feel for the culture, the food and the ambience. Get your bearings. Study the city map. What attractions are you most interested in? Focus on those and do more if you have time. There will always be more to experience in Athens.
Tip: Have balance when it comes to inside vs outside attractions. If you go in the summer, it is likely to be over 100 degrees. Pace yourself. If you need to rest, rest. Don’t overdo. Wear a hat…no, you don’t look goofy, many people wear them as protection from the sun. I sound like your mother, I know. Hey, sometimes moms have great advice!
3 Places to Go +1
Acropolis + Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis is the number one site in Athens. Its a must-do! It is magnificent, gorgeous and an unbelievable structure. You walk up, up, up to the Acropolis which is open from 8:00-8:00. The earlier the better!. You’ll climb up a series of worn marble steps with little railing…careful…wear your sneakers. Then once you’re on top, you can walk all over the Acropolis. There are many structures on top including the Temple of Nike. The views are spectacular. Being afraid of heights, I can tell you, you can do it! Take pictures, wonder at all the structures and be amazed! Allow about 45 minutes on top, then make your way down the steps, turn to the right and stop at Mars Hill where Paul preached to the Athenians. Then turn back in front of the Acropolis and go left for a short walk down to the Acropolis Museum.
Tip: Take a taxi to the entrance of the Acropolis. The walk up can be hot, tiring and time consuming.
Acropolis Museum
I suggest this site at the same time as the Acropolis as the two really highlight each other. After doing the Acropolis, you will be tired and hot. The museum offers a refreshing indoor cafe where you can cool off, have a drink and regroup. There are three floors to the museum. Each highlights different aspects of the Acropolis. The Greeks are still quite miffed that the Scottish Earl of Elgin in the summer of 1801, carted off many marble pieces, called the “Elgin Marbles,” of the Parthenon and the Temple of Nike and took them back to England. They are displayed today in the British Museum. To put it mildly, the Greeks want them back. The Caryatids, five sisters columns that once held up part of the Erechtheion Temple, in the center of the museum are a treasure. The busts of Greek and Roman heroes, the coins and the magnificent frieze tell the story of the Acropolis. There is a gift shop on the 3rd floor and a movie that explains the beginnings of the Acropolis.
Ancient Agora
The Ancient Agora is the ruins of Greek commerce. You will find a large rectangular building, the stoa Attalos, that houses a museum. The long row of pillars and stone are a replica of a money changing market. Pick up a map that takes you on a self-guided tour of the market ruins. Famous Greek philosophers met here to discuss the politics and topics of the day for about 8 centuries, men like Plato, Socrates and the Apostle Paul. Up on a hill near the market is the Temple of Hephaistos from around 450B.C. Much of the temple is still intact. The view of the market from there gives you a better understanding of the layout and structure. A couple of streets over are the ruins of the Roman Agora including the Tower of the Winds, 1st century B.C., an octagonal
building that is a water clock on the inside, sundial on the outside and a weather vane on top. Across the street is the free Museum of Greek Popular Instruments. Head in there and get cool, and enjoy.
Honorable Mention: The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments is a respite from the heat that is worthy of a stop. The museum is free no contributions allowed no matter how hard you try. Photos and displays of traditional instruments represent every region of Greece. The culturally significant videos and audio tapes are memorable and educational concerning Greek culture. Small, but enjoyable.
National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum is a bit west of downtown Athens. Take a taxi to save time, it is worth the trip. The museum is very large and contains the famous Mask of Agamemnon 1550B.C. and the Artemision Bronze statue of either Zeus or Poseidon 450B.C. and many unique statues like the Artemision Jockey 140B.C. There are building ruins, statues, floors of pottery and jewels, artwork and ancient artifacts. This museum is an overview of Greek civilization. It is very informative and contains some gorgeous pieces.
+Plaka
I add the Plaka because it is the famed Greek market area in the center of Athens. It is all things Greek and touristy. My suggestion is to buy some gorgeous Greek jewelry…earrings are a must, have a delicious Greek dinner, shop and then treat yourself to some ice cream before you call it a night. In the summer, many shops and restaurants are open late till 10:00pm. During the day this area can be super crowded. A suggestion for jewelry in the Plaka is Olympico Jewelry, 122 Adrianou, for gorgeous gold earrings and necklaces.
Honorable Mention: Evening adventure in Odeon of Herodes Atticus
A great place for an evening event is the ancient theater, Odeon of Herodes Atticus. We stopped after visiting the Acropolis to see if there were any events happening there during our stay. It turned out that a famous Greek guitarist was having an outdoor concert there in the evening. We bought tickets and joined the hundreds of Greeks enthralled by the acoustical guitarist and several singers. The culture and heritage of Greece was truly on display. We didn’t understand the words, but we understood the passion and the love of traditional Greek music.
3 Places to Eat
Just Made 33
This cafe is on a main shopping street. It offers pasta, satisfying sandwiches, appetizers, coffees and dessert. 33 Evagelistrias 105 60 Athens
The Grecos Project
This place was a treat. It is more of a splurge, but is located right off the main square of Ermou area shopping. This is the most famous pedestrian street for shopping in Athens, from Syntagma Square to Monastiraki. You will go up a flight of stairs to a tree house view of the shops and eat fabulous Caprese salad, souvlaki with tzatziki sauce, homemade potato chips, grilled chicken, veal meatballs and orange cakes. Yum! The service is great and the atmosphere very pleasant. 5 Mitropoleos | Nikis, Athens 105 57
Atitamus
For that across town experience near the National Archaeological Museum, try the Atitamus. This restaurant is quaint and cozy. Their food is simple, chicken, pork, kabobs plus Greek salad and fries, all tasty after our three-hour visit to the museum. Ahhhh…. Solonos & Kapodistrou 2, Solonos & Kapodistrou 2 10677 Athens
Honorable Mention: Plaka Street Food – The restaurants on the Plaka offer a variety of traditional Greek food. The gyros are the original, the best… similar to the crepe vendors in France. Cheap and delicious!
Tip: If you have any Gluten Free, Vegetarian food allergy folks in your group, try Avocado. This restaurant cafe has something for everyone. It’s a healthy option that tastes great! Nikis 30, Athens
1 Place to Stay (with a pool)
Fresh Hotel
This is a modern, trendy oasis with a refreshing pool on the top floor next to the bar. Having a pool is super important if you choose to visit Athens in the summer. It’s hot in Greece in the summer, their peak season, with many people and it’s even hotter in Athens. We took off to see sights in the morning and came back for a refreshing swim and rest after lunch before heading off for more Athens adventures in the evening. The evening is the best time to hit the Plaka for shopping, drinks, ice cream and more.
There are so many significant sites in Athens, we could have easily spent another three days there. Greece is packed with fun, lively, enthusiastic people. The culture is so interesting and the food so divine. We will just have to come back! That’s how you’ll feel as you discover Greece! It is a must-see, must-experience adventure. Oh, and the islands… can’t wait!